June 7th: Fes

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Well rested, we sat on the rooftop terrace and enjoyed our breakfast of olives, laughing cow cheese triangles, apricot jam, an assortment of breads, and coffee. Surveying the vast medina in front of us, we planned our stay in Fes: the medina, obviously; the Necropolis de sultan merinides; the royal palace; le Jardins de boujeloud; Le Musee Dar el batha; the Medersa abou inania; and The castle. We should be able to ft all of that in in a day and a half…

We stopped at the bank on the way to the Place R’cif .. and that’s where the fun began. The medina is easier to navigate from Bab Boujeloud - the opposite side of the medina from where we were -, so we looked for a bus to take us there. Apparently taxis are a greater stimulus to the economy so we were told continuously that no busses run around the perimeter of the medina. I’m sure this can’t be true, but people were adamant. So, we hired a taxi to Bab Boujeloud. On departing the taxi we were instantly accosted by guides - all wearing “official” badges. We talked to one guide, and instant a fight broke out between him and other guide, each insisting the other was not “official.” It was not pleasant, and a far cry from Essaouira. Welcome to Fes! While I dealt with both of them - more with looks , gestures and tone of voice - telling them that neither one of them was required, my aunt had picked up another companion. Walking quietly beside her and telling her what sights to look for in the medina was Abdullah. He remained our guide for the day, patiently explaining the history, architecture and culture of the medina. He had been a science teacher and was delighted to answer all of my questions. He led us to all the monuments, as well as the artisans with whom he obviously had agreements. We watched tanners dyeing skins, weavers at work (agave silk!), craftsmen engaged at their various skills. This is a given with guides, and it would be naive to think otherwise, but he was well known - and obviously respected - throughout the medina.

The medina really is labyrinthine, and there is so much to see. Oh gosh, if I had money... the craftsmanship was astounding and, realistically, very inexpensive. We watched silver, copper and bronze smiths at forges, saw breathtaking displays of Berber rugs, saw them them chisel ceramics and visited the tannery ... would that I could afford something from each place. My aunt surprised me with a gift of a gorgeous leather jacket from the tannery. I chose a style and colour, they measured me and delivered it to our riad that evening. One could get used to this lifestyle! A stop at an antique store netted a marriage proposal from the owner, Hush Hush … my future wife is sitting next to me now, inshallah. Um no. That was the signal to leave! Again, I’m not naive enough to believe this doesn’t happen every hour, at least!

We meandered through the medina entering the Bab Boujloud, the western entrance to the old medina. We traced the narrow alleys, suddenly and unexpectedly running into donkey trains making deliveries. Thanks to Abdullah we were given entry to Glaoui Palace - The Old Palace, the Pasha of Marrakesh’s second home. Once very grand, but poorly maintained and in need of repair since Morocco's independence from France in 1956. It was still a treat to see the opulence that once was. We stopped to peek into El Karaouiyne Mosque and library, open only to Muslims. The mosque was founded by Fatima al-Fihri in 859 with an associated school, or madrasa, which became one of the leading spiritual and educational centers of the historic Muslim world. It is said to be oldest existing, continually operating and the first degree awarding educational institution in the world. We visited the Tomb of Idriss II, founder of Fes, but again were only allowed to peek inside. The day was hot, the medina crowded, the sights and scents overpowering. There was only so much we could do. We conceded defeat after visiting the ceramic factory and were brought back to Place R’cif by a taxi driver with a penchant for the Barcelona soccer team. The Necropolis de sultan merinides, the royal palace, le Jardins de boujeloud, Le Musee Dar el batha, the Medersa abou inania, and The castle, they would all have to wait for the morrow … with an earlier start and a better plan.

We returned to the riad, where Isham was waiting for us. Shortly thereafter my jacket was delivered but the credit card machine was having problems and cash would be a better alternative. My aunt left with the man from the tannery … and neither Isham nor I were sure if either would be seen again!