May 26th: Grocery shopping by horse and carriage

Photos for this post

Today we needed groceries, so a trip to the souk was in order. We have a large fridge but tend to buy only what we need for a day or so - and why not, when fresh foods and meats are available within a short walk. My aunt has had a home here for many years; she has a number of friends, knows which shops have good produce or baked goods, and is greeted with hugs by many of the owners. Today we were lucky to pass by a particular bakery as they were opening - hugs and kisses were exchanged, and introductions made. We made a note to stop again on our way home.

The souk was busy as usual. Smells of fresh mint, cilantro/coriander and assorted spices mix readily with fruit ripening rapidly in the sunshine. We pass shops with mountains of dates - flies buzzing all around - but she is resolute in her determination to purchase only Moroccan dates. The souk seems to expand with every visit; the entire city is a maze of alleys within alleys. Our last visit took us to the fish market, today we pass chickens and rabbits. Some are caged, others penned, yet others have their legs bound and are lazing on the sidewalk awaiting their fate. It's not a fit place for a vegetarian. I eat meat, I abhor the animal farming methods in use today, I have reconciled myself to hunting for meat - but not for sport. We pass by the chickens, continue past the butcher shops as they cleave full carcasses, and on to purchase onions, squash, peaches and bread. The squash will accompany our leftover couscous and lamb curry tonight.

We returned home, passing the bakery where a line is starting to form… fresh quiches straight from the oven, items that look like pizza, and pasties. She hasn't even had time to put the prices out. We purchased a slice of quiche and a chicken sausage pasty for our lunch.

My aunt had spoken of two grocery stores outside the City walls. We visited the French store earlier in the week, today we decided to visit the Moroccan one. We walked back through the medina, to Bab Doukala and the awaiting taxi cabs, buses and horse drawn carriages. The buses are for long journeys, between cities. The taxi cabs are for short journeys. The carriages are for the poor who cannot afford the 6Dh ($0.60) taxi ride … or for those opting for a little more adventure. The carriages run to the Moroccan supermarket, about 10 minutes away, and cost 2Dh ($0.20) per person. They seat 6 … and do not move until they have at least 6 people aboard.

The journey was pleasant and short, and we were dropped off outside the supermarket in an area of council, or government supplied, homes. Not picturesque, perhaps closer to ghetto, but not unsafe. The supermarket had Whirlpool fridges and large flat screen tvs, and household goods as well as groceries; Tescos or a mini Wal-Mart on two floors, with a flat escalator between them. Prices for household goods were comparable to Wal-Mart, but quality closer to that of a dollar store. Appliances were on a par with the US - although wages here are not. We were only there to look, but bought cracked wheat/bulgar for tabbouleh, and a box of harira soup which we have both been wanting to try.

I have realised as I have wandered the medina, the souk, the grocery stores, and the stores I have visited in other countries, that I am a more knowledgeable cook than I give myself credit. My cooking is incredibly diverse, my love of cook books has taken me to other lands and introduced me to exotic dishes and ingredients - occasionally only by name and photograph.

Across from the supermarket, in what would be a council estate in the UK, the projects in the US, was another souk. We walked over to explore and found ourselves listening to Moroccan versions of Del Boy!

As we returned to Bab Doukala we noticed a restaurant advertising “terrace vue de la mer,” disbelieving that we would be able to see the sea, we entered and asked if we could take a look. Up the stairs and… the Catholic cemetery, the taxi cabs and carriages lined up for prospective customers, the City walls and Bab Doukala and yes, the sea! No additional invitation was needed for us to sit and order mint teas. One day soon we shall return to watch the sun set.