May 27 - 28: Exploring and planning

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May 27th: Essaouira at play

We set our alarm clocks for 7am planning to visit the large market at Had Dra.  But the rain woke us up at 6, and the market is a muddy place. Changing plans, we spent the day both in and outside the medina, checking bus and coach timetables while discussing the possibilities of a road trip.

We walked along the beach and explored far beyond the city walls, into what appeared to be an affluent neighbourhood; signs of gentrification here, too. The beach was crowded; families enjoying their Sunday, children playing soccer, kite surfers aplenty enjoying the wind for which Essaouira, the windy city, is famous. The plaza by the beach could be any Mediterranean beach

In the evening we opted not to cook,but to go out for dinner and a movie at the nearby cine club. I have good intentions of reading Neruda’s poetry, but as yet they remain intentions. The movie was Neruda,  the 2016 release directed by Pablo Larraín. Interesting - but I think I need to read more about Neruda’s life. For 100 Dh ($10) we were served fish soup, a delicious dessert of chopped pears & bananas, covered with toasted almonds and cream, and a tajine of our choice. My fish tajine was nothing to write home about - my aunt was even less impressed with her chicken tajine. But, for  $10.00 it was a pleasant evening, and only 3 other people watching the movie with us.

May 28th: Planning a road trip

In the morning I took some time to wander a small corner of the medina on my own and was rewarded with the sounds of drum beats from a small shop. I spent about half an hour with Said watching him at work on djembes and other instruments. He was born here in Essaouira, and has been hand carving and building instruments since he was 7 years old.

To their amusement, I stood and watched workers repaving a street. I pondered buying egg cups as gifts for friends. Strolling on I passed a cat house set out on the street. This city is full of stray cats; they laze in the sunshine and feast on the many scraps thrown to them by shopkeepers and fish vendors. I was amused, but wouldn't have considered a cat house necessary. I purchased an old photo showing the collapse of a section of city wall. Again, I had a lovely conversation with the owner - the woodwork for sale was carved by him, and the photos had all been taken by his father many years ago.

The shops in the medina sell mainly leather goods, silver jewellery, and wooden items - “magic” boxes with hidden slots and mysterious openings being their specialty, and proudly shown. Thuya is the wood most frequently used. So far I have been able to “converse” with the shopkeepers - gesticulating while using broken French.- They look disbelieving when I say “Anglais,” but smile when I touch my face/skin and say “Indian … mais Anglais.”

I made tabouleh for lunch, then we spent the afternoon researching bus schedules and hotels.  I miss my laptop as I am having to do everything, including this blog, on my little 2.5”x4”phone. (Thank you for tolerating the incorrect grammar and the autocorrect mis-”corrections”). I think we have it sorted: 5 cities, 4 nights away. This is going to be fun…. My aunt suggested with a laugh that we can get one bed and I can sleep on the floor...